Monday, August 28, 2017

Breadventures: Gluten-Free Bread in the Middle Ages


“Tasty!  Happy to see period gluten free experimentation”
                                                                 
                   “Awesome bread!  Better than what I can buy in the stores.”

“Want to make a gluten free feast one day?”
                                              
           “Thank you so much – first baked good I’ve been able to try!!”

These are a few of the remarks people wrote on the feedback sheet I had available for people to leave comments, suggestions and advice for my bread project at the Arts and Sciences Display at Pennsic 2017.  I was only able to sit with my display for the last 2 hours of the afternoon but during that time I had overwhelmingly positive feedback from many taste testers.  Watching people try my bread sample and seeing the surprised look on their faces when they realized it tasted good made all the work I put into this project well worth it!  Below is the documentation that accompanied the project…which I finished just before leaving for Pennsic.  It is my intention to update and fine-tune this document and include some of the many photographs I took during my journey for entrance into future A&S competitions and/or displays.  For now you’ll just have to put up with reading my current document and seeing before and after photos from Pennsic!

Me and My Pride and Joy!
Before...

...After!

Breadventures:  Gluten-Free Bread in the Middle Ages

In 2005 I was diagnosed with celiac disease, which requires me to eat a gluten-free diet.  When I joined the SCA a couple of years later I realized I would have to find safe ways to enjoy feasts.  At this point I had no idea this would take me on a journey to medieval gluten-free bread, I just wanted to eat dessert!  So I began making gluten-free treats to bring to events.  Once people tasted my gluten-free goodies and started asking how to make them I began to do various classes on gluten-free feasting because it was obvious the interest was there and I wanted people to know how to safely prepare it.  My favourite thing to make is pies and pastries because there are so many medieval fillings that are naturally gluten-free.  When I offered to teach a class on how to make my gluten-free pastry I was challenged with the opinion that offering a class on making gluten-free pastry was did not subscribe to period cooking because it was a modern day recipe.  I never taught that class, but that opinion inspired me to de-bunk the myth that gluten-free cooking, especially baking, was not within the parameters of the Middle Ages.  With that in mind, I eventually developed a plausibly gluten-free pie crust with oat flour.  I continued playing with more period dessert recipes and on April Fool’s Day this year I ran an event called “Fool’s Paradise”…a dream I had had for many years…with a dessert day-board and breakfast for dinner feast! 100% gluten-free!  Even then, throughout all of these adventures, the idea of creating a medieval gluten-free bread seemed entirely too outrageous and impossible.  But if you know me, you know I like a challenge.

I don’t think I could have attempted medieval gluten-free bread until now because my brain needed all of my adventures to teach me to think outside the bread-box.  I have learned that baking is a science experiment and my kitchen is my laboratory.  My adventures have brought me to research the history of celiac disease, grains available in the Middle Ages and various medieval baking practices.  Most important of all, I have learned how to look at things from a different perspective and make my own deductions and discoveries beyond what has been recorded in history.  Just because there is no extant evidence doesn’t mean it didn’t exist.

My Philosophy:
  •         If people of the Middle Ages were inspired to alter their diets for intolerance or other health reasons, it is plausible that the changes they made could have produced gluten-free options.
  •         As we experiment with recipes in modern times, so would those living in the Middle Ages.
  •         There were likely situations that created an environment that would have forced people to prepare food that contained grains other than those containing gluten.


Desired Goal in the Final Product:
  •         My goal was not to re-create gluten-free bread into a close replica of gluten bread, but to invent gluten-free bread that could have been made in the Middle Ages that is edible even if it does not resemble general preconceived ideas of “bread”.

Plausible Scenario:
  • Based on research and information gathered, I believe a plausible scenario is as follows:  A man of nobility has found he feels ill after consuming the usual bread made for him so he challenges his staff to come up with something different for him to eat.

My Parameters:
  •         Recipes for bread were almost non-existent in the Middle Ages.  I would have to make it up as I went along.
  •      Having little to no experience in baking regular gluten bread much less gluten-free bread, I would need to consult some modern day recipe books.
  •          I would not be able to use xanthan gum (the modern day gluten-free baking wonder ingredient) due to its non-existence in the Middle Ages and would have to find other binding agents.
  •         I would only be able to use gluten-free grains available in the Middle Ages.
  •         My final product would ideally avoid other gluten-free ingredients that tend to bother my stomach.
  •         Although experimenting with oven baked gluten-free bread I would like to have a bread that I could plausibly cook on the “stove-top” as would be available to me during SCA camping.
  •          No electric beaters would be used.  Elbow grease is my beater.
  •         Ingredients such as water, milk, salt, honey, apple cider vinegar (common to gluten free baking) and fats would not be discussed in depth in a historical sense because the main focus is on grains, yeast, binding agents and method.
  •         My main focus would be on leavened bread with a little experimentation with flatbread.


Diet and Health History:

Celiac disease has been known for much longer than people realize.  A Greco-Roman physician living in approximately the 2nd Century AD, Areataeus of Cappadocia, wrote a medical treatise entitled On the Causes and Symptoms of Chronic Disease which included the first historical and medical narrative of celiac disease.  (Tekiner, 2015)  Here is an excerpt from The Extant Works of Aretaeus, The Cappadocian translated by Francis Adams in 1856:  “Chapter VII: On the Coeliac Affection: The stomach being the digestive organ, labours in digestion, when diarrhœa seizes the patient… and if this does not proceed from a slight cause of only one or two days' duration; and if, in addition, the patient's general system be debilitated by atrophy of the body, the Cœliac disease of a chronic nature is formed.” (Aretaeus, circa 2nd Century)

Diet and health were very closely tied together in the Middle Ages.  Food was a main consideration for medieval physicians as they were involved in making decisions on food preparation and were part of the staff for high ranking people.  (Scully, 1995) Congruently, medieval cooks were not only knowledgeable about food, but also familiar with the “humours” or well-being of the body. (Scully, 1995)  Many manuscripts from the late Middle Ages were medical treatises and recipe books combined evidenced by the well known The Forme of Cury from 1390 quoting “…copiled by assent and avyssement of maistress phisik and of philosophie that dwelled in his court…” (Scully, 1995)  Loosley translated  “…compiled by consent and deliberation of the masters of medicine and of alchemy that dwelt in his (Richard II’s) court…”

Diet Alteration:

There is evidence that people in the past have attempted to alter their diets due to food intolerance and particularly celiac disease.  In 2008, the skeleton of a young woman was discovered at the Cosa archaeological site in Italy, which showed signs of celiac disease including DNA analysis of the remains testing positive for a gene variant that is found in nearly all celiac patients in modern populations. (Callaway, 2014)  Analysis of carbon and nitrogen isotopes related to food intake indicated that the woman likely ate more meat and freshwater fish and fewer plants than other people living in the same area which lead scientists to believe she may have been attempting to alter her own diet to relieve symptoms. (Callaway, 2014)

There are also many cases where social rank as well as change in environment forced use of ingredients that were naturally gluten-free.  For example, ergotism, a disease resulting from rye grain infected with the ergot fungus, killed many people in the early Middle Ages. (Adamson, 2004)  Wheat prices soared due to famine in 1314 and crop failure lead to famine and plague in 1364.  (Adamson, 2004)  It has been recorded that the poor and victims of famine would stretch their grain supply for bread by adding barley, oats, beans, chestnuts, lentils, green beans, peas, sawdust, grass and weeds.  (Adamson, 2004)  There were also accounts of bread made of beans and peas called horsebread that would be fed to horses but would be eaten by people as well. (Fjellman, 2004)

Types of Bread:

While considering a gluten-free medieval bread invention, it is helpful to understand that the bread of the Middle Ages was not one size fits all.   Though the most desired bread in the Middle Ages was considered white, it was actually more cream coloured due to the wheat germ still being present, while in modern white bread, the wheat germ is removed.  (Adamson, 2004) The types of bread available included: 1) Pandemain/Paindemaigne (later called Manchet) which was the most desirable and expensive, made with the best wheat flour and was white in colour,  2)  Wastel which was a good quality bread and remained white in colour, 3)  Cocket which was an even cheaper white bread, 4) Cheat which was whole wheat with the bran removed (no colour mentioned), 5)  Tourte contained husk as well as flour and was brown, 6) Horsebread which was made of beans, peas and any other grain and 7) Clapbread which was essentially barley bread or oatcakes. (Newman, 2001, Adamson, 2004)

Recipes:

There is little to no information on actual bread recipes from the Middle Ages.  There are several reasons why this may have occurred.   Most extant medieval cookbooks that have survived include names of ingredients but little information on quantities, measurements, exact seasonings, temperatures, or cooking times.  (Adamson, 2004)  The process of bread making was not done by a singular person; the farmer would grow the grain and bring it to miller who would grind the grain who would bring the resulting flour to the baker who would make the bread. (Matterer, 2000)  The common practice for nobles was to employ their own bakers.  (Doves Farm Foods, 2017)  Chefs, on the other hand, did not do the baking, so recipes may not have been shared by the bakers to chefs in order to make it into a cookbook.  (Newman, 2001)  Finally, making bread was such a common act that recipes were more than likely passed among bakers and families by mouth or by hands-on experience, “…making the recording of bread recipes as writing down the recipe for boiling water.”  (Newman, 2001)

Grains and Other Ingredients for Flour

Wheat may have been the most popular and esteemed flour in the Middle Ages but it certainly wasn’t the only one used.  Other grains and ingredients included barley (not gluten-free), rye (not gluten-free), oats (gluten-free if pure), peas, beans, lentils, green beans, millet, rice, fava beans and chickpeas (garbanzo beans), almonds and other nuts.  (Adamson, 2004)  Historically speaking, rice, which is a widely used ingredient in gluten-free baking, has been around since early ancient times, with Greeks and Romans using it not only in cooking, but also as a medicinal use.  (Adamson, 2004)  Today, white rice flour is milled from polished white rice while brown rice flour is milled from unpolished brown rice.  (Hagman, 1999) Both types have a delicate flavour.  (Katzinger, 2012)  Millet, a mild tasting grain, is part of the grass family of rice and corn.  (Hagman, 2004)   It was cultivated in Europe before 2000BC with Greeks and Romans using it for porridge or unleavened bread.  (Adamson, 2004)    It has a good level of protein and gives lightness to bread.  (Katzinger, 2012)  Native to Europe, fava beans were eaten by monks and were also consumed during Lentenfare. (Adamson, 2004)  Chickpeas were particularly popular in the Mediterranean regions of the Middle Ages. (Adamson, 2004)  Chickpea or garbanzo bean flour adds fat which adds moisture to a dough as well as protein.  (Katzinger, 2012, Hagman, 1999)  A mix of fava beans and garbanzo beans is today called Garfava or Garbanzo and Fava flour.  (Hagman, 1999)

 Yeast

Yeast as a leavening agent has been around since ancient Egyptian times even though the people did not understand how it worked.  (Doves Farm, 2017)  It was likely that the use of yeast was discovered simply by accident, when people would leave dough paste to dry in the sun; wild  yeast from the air likely combined with the flour and water resulting in fermenting and dough rise.  (Doves Farm, 2017)  In medieval times, physicians actually believed leavened bread to be more nutritious than unleavened bread.  (Adamson, 2004)  Eventually people learned how yeast works to give rise to bread.  Simply put, yeast eats sugar and makes bubbles, giving lightness to bread. (Katzinger, 2012)  Chemically speaking, yeast is a fungus that reproduces quickly by the process of budding, where the yeast cell wall expands until it detaches itself from the main cell creating a new cell and so on and so forth.  (Katzinger 2012)  During the process of budding, yeast cells produce enzymes that break down the sugars resulting in CO2 bubbles and small amounts of ethanol which gives rise to bread. (Katzinger, 2012)  The common type of yeast used in medieval times was barm, which was a liquid yeast made by fermenting grain mash into beer.  (Newman, 2001)  Considering that barm, (also known as Brewer’s yeast), is not gluten-free, I turn to active dry yeast.  Active dry yeast, a type of baker’s yeast, uses cane molasses or beet molasses for its fermentation process which eventually results in the collection of “cream yeast” that is then processed and dried to create the yeast used most today. (Red Star Yeast, 2014-present)

Binding Agents

Binding agents are key to the difference between an edible baked good and a rock.  Gluten is magical.  Found in grains such as wheat, barley, rye and spelt, gluten is a blend of proteins attached to the endosperms of the grain that, when combined with liquid, will bond, giving elasticity, air pockets, shape and chewiness to the baked goods we love the most.  (Katzinger, 2012)  For many years, attempting to make gluten-free baked goods, especially bread, would end in tears and a lot of bread tossed in the trash.  Giving gluten-free baked goods some elasticity and body, xanthan gum came along to save the day!   Discovered in the 1950s and commercially available in the 1960s, xanthan gum is the result of a bacterial fermenting process that provides a slimy substance that is dried and ground into a powder for use. (Oulton, 2014)  Alas, if I want to create the most authentic gluten-free medieval bread possible, xanthan gum is too young on the baking scene for the job.  There are, however, other binding agents that can help.  In fact, author and blogger Shauna James Ahern rarely uses xanthan gum at all due to its tendency to be hard to digest. (Ahern, 2005-2017)  There are several choices for alternatives to xanthan gum that were available in the Middle Ages.  Eggs are known for their binding qualities.  (Brady, 2016)  Gelatin is another choice, adding protein that combines with yeast to give elasticity.  (Hagman, 1999)  In the Middle Ages gelatin/gel was extracted from animal hooves, the skin of certain animals, and fish.  (Adamson, 2004)  A combination of ground chia seeds and ground flax seeds combined with boiling water is a popular modern binder of gluten-free baked goods.  (Ahern, 2011)  Though it has been around for thousands of years, chia seeds are a New World ingredient, so it is not eligible for my purposes.  (Ahern, 2011)  Flaxseed, on the other hand, also being around for thousands of years, originated in Mesopotamia and was used widely in ancient Roman and Greek gastronomy.  (McNamara, 2017)   In the Middle Ages, flax was grown on Charlemagne’s farms in 812. (Adamson, 2004)  Medically speaking, flax is known for its healthy properties; said by the Greek physician, Hippocrates in 650, it was useful as a laxative and for relief of mucous membrane inflammation, abdominal pain and diarrhea.  (Umeze, 2001)

Methods

Though my main purpose is to create gluten-free leavened bread it is important to mention unleavened breads as well.  Earlier breads were mainly unleavened flatbreads.  (Jack and Ruby, 2017)  Most cooking within a typical household in the Middle Ages would be done using an open fire; cast iron cauldrons set right into the coals or hung over the fire were a common kitchen tool.  (Adamson, 2004)  Though there are different types, a common flatbread from Scotland and Britain, called bannock, was generally made from barley, oats, and water or buttermilk. (Davidson, 1999)  It is thicker than an oatcake and larger than a scone. (Davidson, 1999)  It was first cooked in the fire on a flat stone called a girdle (griddle in modern language).  (Wells, 2009) 

Although unleavened bread remained a staple for most, leavened bread eventually came into favour in the later Middle Ages.  (Bayless, 2007)  In lower class homes, bread could be covered by an upturned pot and cooked on a griddle.  (Jack and Ruby, 2014)  Most baking ovens were not a household staple as we enjoy today;  at best there might be a community oven available.  (Adamson, 2004)  As mentioned earlier, most people would not even bake their own bread due to strict laws about bread-baking and who was allowed to do it.  (Matterer, 2000).  Households of nobility, however, would have the luxury of employing bakers within the household and be able to enjoy leavened bread more easily. (Adamson, 2004)

When it comes to the actual science in bread-making and its methods, most gluten breads go through similar processes:  Ingredients are mixed, kneaded, left to rise, punched down, formed into loaves, left to rise again, then baked in the oven.  (Cunningham, 1979)  When it comes to gluten-free bread…GOOD gluten-free bread…the process is slightly different right from the beginning.  Ingredients are mixed, and mixed well, but there is no kneading per se, mainly because the dough is not like gluten dough in that it has more of a cake batter consistency making kneading rather messy.  (Hagman, 1999)  When it comes to rising of the dough, most commonly only one rising is done for most gluten-free recipes but author of Gluten-Free and Vegan Bread, Jennifer Katzinger doesn’t even leave the dough rise once before baking.  (Katzinger, 2012).  There is chemistry involved that explains the reduced or no rise time.  Gluten is a mix of proteins that are attached to endosperms of grains such as wheat, barley, rye and spelt and when combined with liquid, the proteins bond and become very strong and resilient, resulting in “oven spring” of the final product. (Katzinger, 2012)  The protein bonds in gluten-free dough are much less resilient and cannot handle too much rising.  (Katzinger, 2012)  Once in the oven, the heat causes the feeding process of the yeast to accelerate and eventually die.  (Katzinger, 2012)  Gluten dough is strong enough to hold up the bread when this happens but gluten-free dough is not.  (Hagman, 1999)  Gluten-free dough relies solely on the yeast activity in the oven to create oven spring; if the yeast has already done most of its work during rise time on the counter, it will die faster.  (Katzinger, 2012)  Over-proofing of gluten-free dough will result in a crumpled, shrunken loaf that comes out of the oven crumbly and dry.  (Hangman, 1999)

Other considerations when it comes to making bread are the oven temperature, the fact that every oven is different, air temperature, and humidity.  All of these things can change how your bread behaves.  As in medieval times, no exact rising or baking time can produce exactly the same results every time.

My Personal Journey:

For this project I have tried over 30 different recipes using various combinations of ingredients and methods.  Since the first recipe started off on a whim, I did not have all the information I needed at the beginning so my education was ongoing through research, by accident, and through trial and error.  The following is a condensed report of the test bakes with note on changes I made during the process to arrive at my final recipe.  Please refer to my addendum Breadventures Notes for in depth descriptions of each recipe and the results as I made them.


  •          # 0.5:  no photos.  Initial recipe was thrown together on a whim with no leavening agents and using oat flour alone
  •      Group A:  # 1, 2, 3.  Started to use yeast.  Started to use different combinations of flours including millet, garbanzo/fava, brown rice, and white rice.  Still using non-gluten free methods.
  •          Group B:  # 4, 5, 6.  Oat flour eliminated.  Concluded garbanzo/fava flour gives the best taste and started to think it helped the loaf overall.  Various combinations of liquids (including almond milk) and flours.  Tried baking bread in ramekins instead of on a baking sheet.
  •         Group C:  # 7, 8.  Omitted the idea of ramekins since they didn’t work out in Group B.  Attempted using almond milk again.  Changed combinations of flours.
  •         Group D:  #9, 10.  Almond milk was omitted due to no real difference and stomach upset.  Tried a buttermilk mix (milk and apple cider vinegar)
  •          Group E:  # 11, 12.  Omitted milk and went back to water. Added butter.
  •          Group F:  #13.  It was here when I turned to research specifically on gluten-free bread baking to see if I could figure out what I was missing.  It was at this point I tried no rise time at all.  Results were rock hard.
  •         Group G:  # 14, 15.  Finally a turnaround!  I decided to include at least one rising as most gluten-free cookbooks seemed to use this method.  No punching down of dough.  Mixing really well by hand.  Results were getting better in taste and spring but still somewhat crumbly and dry.  It was also at this time I arrived at my favourite flour mix of 1/3 garbanzo/fava flour, 1/3 millet flour and 1/3 white rice flour.
  •          Group H:  # 16, 17.  Using my mother’s method of making steam pudding I decided to start “baking” loaves by steaming in a stove-top pan.  This method would work great for “baking” at camp events too.  I compared it to a baked loaf and liked the steamed version better.
  •          Group I:  # 18, 19.  Still wanting to increase moisture I added oil and butter.  Played a little more with steam timings.  Started measuring final temperature of loaves to be around 200-210 F.  Getting better.
  •          Group J: # 20, 21.  Quality of the final product, especially moisture, was still bothering me.  Knowing xanthan gum helps with modern gluten-free baking I researched alternative binding agents that would be available in the Middle Ages.  Ground flax and eggs were tried.  Also accidentally omitted salt for the next few recipes.  A steamed version and a baked version were tried.  The steamed version was better but still a little dry.
  •          Group K:  # 22.  Figured out that I should mix the ground flax with water before adding to the mixture.  Eggs were omitted because I didn’t think they made a difference.  This would bring me to recipe #22 which turned out to be a real difference in taste, texture and especially moisture compared to all previous loaves.  These were also the first loaves that were edible on the second day after baking.
  •          Group L:  #23.  As I had read that gelatin could be a useful binder for gluten-free breads, I tried it.    Turned out very crumbly.
  •          Group M:  # 24, 25, 26.  I went back to the flax/water mixture for binding agents.  Decided to add in more period fats…tried bacon fat and store bought lard.  Finally realized I had forgotten salt in the last few recipes so added that back in.  Also compared a baked loaf to a steamed loaf again.  Steamed remained to be best but the baked loaf was nice straight from the oven for its crustiness…however drier than the steamed version.  Both were still not rivalling #22.
  •          Group N:  # 27.  Considering the only real difference between #22 and the loaves made after it was the salt, I decided to reduce the salt in #27.  Results were the best of all.  This is my magic final leavened bread recipe!
  •          Group O:  # 28, 29, 30, 31.  I wanted to at least try a couple of unleavened flatbread recipes so tried one with oats and one with my mix of flours.  They were great right out of the frying pan but nothing like the leavened versions and certainly did not have much longevity in edibleness.

*So far results in all groups were mostly crumbly, dry and heavy.  I was still using the original process of two risings including a punching down step.  I knew for sure that garbanzo/fava flour was working well and tasting good so it would stay in my recipes.


Final Product:  Isolda's Gluten-Free Leavened Medieval Bread Recipe:

2 tablespoons lard, melted
1 tablespoon honey
1 teaspoon yeast
¼ cup + 2 tablespoons hot water
¼ cup hot water
1/8 teaspoon salt
2 oz garbanzo/fava flour
2 oz millet flour
2 oz rice flour
1 oz ground flax

Method:
Mix garbanzo/fava, millet and rice flours together with salt in a bowl.  In a separate bowl, mix melted lard with ¼ cup + 2 tablespoons of hot water and stir in the ground flax.  Meanwhile, mix the honey with the hot water and sprinkle the yeast over it and stir a little.  Let stand for about 5 minutes.  Stir the flax mixture with the yeast mixture together then add to the dry ingredients.  Beat with a fork or spoon until the mixture comes together and for as long as your arms can stand mixing.  Place into a parchment lined metal dish, cover lightly with plastic wrap and let rise for approximately 40 minutes.  On the stovetop, prepare a pot with a pressure cooker rack (metal sieve with holes in it), a sieve that will fit in the bottom of your pot or simply crumple up some aluminum foil to make a place for your baking bowl to sit on.  Pour enough water in so that it will come up about a quarter of the way up the side of your baking bowl when the bowl is set in and bring to boil.  Remove the plastic wrap from the baking bowl and cover it securely with aluminum foil.  Place bowl in prepared pot, cover and steam for about 60 minutes.  Remove from dish and place onto a cooling rack, cover lightly with a tea towel and let rest for 10-20 minutes before cutting.

CONCLUSIONS:

My ultimate goal was not to re-create gluten-free bread into a close replica of gluten bread, but to invent gluten-free bread that could have been made in the Middle Ages and is edible even if it does not resemble general preconceived ideas of “bread”.  I believe I achieved what I set out to do.  No, my gluten-free medieval bread loaf is not the fluffy pull-apart white bread that we know and love today.  It is, however, a perfectly edible masterpiece (yes, I’m a little bias) of experimental baking that I would be happy to serve at a feast.

If not the cause, the symptoms and health problems of celiac disease have been known well before modern days with extant evidence of diet alteration.  Furthermore, with diet and medicine being so closely related in medieval times, it seems plausible that diets could have been altered for at least higher ranks of population.  Even high ranking individuals would not be able to escape the crises of illness, famine and crop failure.  Experimentation with different ingredients would be a necessity.  With these things in mind I believe my scenario of a nobleman asking his staff (which would include his physician, cook and baker) to make him a different kind of bread is completely plausible.  With all the different gluten-free grains and other naturally gluten-free ingredients available in the Middle Ages it is very possible that people were eating gluten-free bread like mine without knowing anything about celiac disease.

As for my methods, results, and overall experience, though I am a huge fan of using modern day gluten-free ingredients, recipes and even store bought items to make gluten-free feasting more enjoyable, I have to say that it feels very satisfying to de-bunk some modern medieval myths by using period ingredients and methods to create plausibly medieval gluten-free bread.  Despite the number of times I trialed different recipes and the amount of inedible gluten-free bread that was tossed, as my Mum always used to say, “There are no failures in this kitchen!” because I learned a lot and I’m sure I could learn more.  In the end, my creation of a medieval gluten-free bread recipe turned out to be not so impossible or outrageous at all. But for now, I’m sick of tasting bread for a little while!

REFERENCES

Adams, Francis. (translator)  Extant Works of Aretaeus thef Cappadocian By Aretaeus the Cappadocian:     Aretaeus, The Cappadocian, on the Causes and Symptoms of Chronic Disease Book 1.  Translated from Latin to English 1856.  Accessed on Digital Hippocrates website:   http://www.chlt.org/sandbox/dh/aretaeusEnglish/page.102.a.php?size=240x320  Accessed July 16, 2017.
Adamson, Melitta Weis.  Food In Medieval Times c2004, Greenwood Press, Westport, CT.  Pages x, xii, xiii, xiv, xvii-xix, and Pages 2, 3, 5, 6, 24-25, 56, 58, 88, 90, 92, and 173.

Ahern, Shauna James.  Chia Seeds and Flax Seeds.  https://glutenfreegirl.com/2011/02/chia-seeds-and-flaxseeds/.  Gluten-Free Girl c2005-2017.

Ahern, Shauna James.  A Guide to Gluten-Free Baking.  https://glutenfreegirl.com/a-guide-to-gluten-free-baking/  Gluten-Free Girl c2005-2017.

Bayless, Martha.  How to Make Everyday Anglo-Saxon Bread: Version 2 (Hearthcakes or “Kichells”). May 13, 2007. The Early English Bread Project.  https://earlybread.wordpress.com/   Accessed online July 18, 2017.

Brady, C.J.  How to Make Gluten Free Bread Without Xanthan Gum.  Gluten Free Bread   http://gluten-free-bread.org/how-to-make-gluten-free-bread-without-xanthan-gum  c2016.   Accessed July 16 2017.

Cunningham, Marion.  The Fannie Farmer Cookbook.  c1979.  Fannie Farmer Cookbook  Corporation.  New York, NY.  Pages 717-720.

Davidson, Alan.  The Oxford Companion to Food.  c1999.  Oxford, New York. Page 61

Doves Farm.  The History of Bread.  Doves Farm website:  https://www.dovesfarm.co.uk/hints-tips/bread-making/the-history-of-bread.  c 2017.  Doves Farm Foods Ltd. Company.  Accessed online July 16, 2017.

Fjellman, Lynda Horsebread:  A findings paper on making medieval horse feed. c2004.  http://ilaria.veltri.tripod.com/horsebread.html Accessed online July 16, 2017.

Hagman, Bette.  The Gluten-Free Gourmet Bakes Bread.  c1999, Hold Paperbacks, NY, NY.  Pages 12-14, 27, 29, and 30.

Hagman, Bette.  The Gluten-Free Gourmet Cooks Comfort Foods.  c2004.  Henry Hold and Company NY NY. Page 23.

Jack and Ruby.  St. Patrick’s Day Bread.   March 18, 2014.  https://breadjr.wordpress.com/category/early-medieval-bread/ Blog at wordpress accessed online July 16 2017.

Katzinger, Jennifer.  Gluten-Free and Vegan Bread. c2012.  Sasquatch Books, Seattle.  Pages xix, xxi, xxii and Pages 3, 4-6, and 8.

Matterer, James.  Pandemayne.  2000.  A Boke of Gode Cookery.  Web page:  http://www.godecookery.com/goderec/grec28.htm  Accessed online July 16, 2017.
Medieval Bread, Medieval-Recipes.com c2010-2016.  http://www.medieval-recipes.com/medieval-food/bread/ Accessed July 16, 2017.
McNamara, Kyle. Why Flaxseed?  History, health, cooking tips and recipes.
https://be-still-farms.com/blogs/healthy-organic-living-blog/29579137-why-flaxseed-history-health-cooking-tips-and-recipes   Be Still Farms Healthy and Organic Living Blog c2017.  Accessed July 18, 2017.

Oulton, Randal.  “Xanthan Gum.”  CooksInfo.com.   Published 19 June 2004; revised 03 January 2014.  http://www.cooksinfo.com/xanthan-gum accessed July 18 2017. Accessed online July 18, 2017.

Red Star Yeast.com.  The Science of Yeast:  Manufacturing of Yeast.  c2014-present LYC/RSYChttp://redstaryeast.com/science-yeast/manufacturing-yeast/  . Accessed July 18 2017.


Tekiner, Halil.    Areteaus of Cappadocia and His Treatises on Diseases.  2015.  Turkish Nuerosurgeryhttp://www.turkishneurosurgery.org.tr/abstract.php?id=1541  Accessed July 16 2017.

Wells, Elizabeth.  Oatmeal Bannock.  A Bread a Day blog. http://www.abreadaday.com/oatmeal-bannock/.
 Sept 2 2009.  Accessed July 18 2017.


Monday, August 21, 2017

Plausibly Period: Gluten-Free in the Middle Ages (Class held at Pennsic 2017)

Second Trip to Pennsic, First Time Teaching at Pennsic!

I was lucky enough to attend Pennsic War 2017 this summer.  While there I taught a class on gluten-free food in the Middle Ages.  I've done quite a few classes elsewhere specifically about how to prepare a gluten-free feast and on allergy/diet awareness but this time I wanted to include some of the history I have discovered over the last few years as well as my personal philosophy and thoughts on the subject.  And of course, I wanted to share samples too!  I had anticipated perhaps 8 people per class, but I was overjoyed to host about 20 people in peace week and 10 in war week.  I ran out of hand-outs, recipe pages and samples!  My audience was generally made up of about two thirds with celiac disease/gluten intolerance and one third simply interested in how to incorporate gluten-free food into their feasts.  The feedback was overwhelmingly good with much gratitude for holding a class on this particular diet restriction.  As nervous as I was to teach, it was all worth it, my favourite moment being when one lady came up to me and exclaimed, "Thank you!" and gave me a big hug!

So, in case you missed it, here's the tutorial:

Plausibly Period:  Gluten-Free in the Middle Ages

Covered in this tutorial:
·         History about celiac disease and gluten-free dining.
·         Gluten-free grains and other ingredients in the Middle Ages.
·         A bit of the science behind gluten-free baking.
·         Tips on how to incorporate gluten free selections into your feasts.
·         Recipes and samples.

About Me:

In 2005 I was diagnosed with celiac disease, which, for those who may not know, medically requires a gluten-free diet.  When I joined the SCA a couple of years later I realized I would have to find safe ways to enjoy feasts, especially dessert!  So I began making gluten-free treats to bring to events.  Once people tasted my gluten-free goodies and started asking how to make them I began to do various classes on gluten-free feasting because it was obvious the interest was there and I wanted people to know how to safely prepare it.  My favourite thing to make is pies and pastries because there are so many medieval fillings that are naturally gluten-free.  However, when I offered to teach a class on how to make my gluten-free pastry I was challenged with an opinion that offering a class on making gluten-free pastry did not subscribe to period cooking because it was a modern day recipe.  I never taught that class, but that opinion inspired me to de-bunk the myth that gluten-free food was not within the parameters of the Middle Ages.  I eventually developed a plausibly gluten-free pie crust with oat flour.  I continued playing with more period dessert recipes and cooked my first event on April Fool’s Day this year called “Fool’s Paradise” …basically a backwards kind of day with a dessert day-board and breakfast for dinner feast!  And yes, it was 100% gluten-free!  And just this past week I finished a project on medieval gluten-free bread I call “Breadventures”.    I basically spent the last few months experimenting with over 30 different recipes to come up with something I consider edible and would serve to other people. 

My Philosophy:
  •          Just because people didn’t know about celiac disease in the Middle Ages doesn’t mean it didn’t exist. We just happen to know more about it now.  And there are people, doctors even, who don’t know about celiac disease today.
  •          In the SCA, when we do A&S projects, there is a high emphasis on historical documentation, especially extant examples from museums or as pictured or described in manuscripts.  My philosophy when it comes to gluten-free recipes that I consider medieval is as long as the ingredients and methods are plausible and documented, why shouldn’t I create my own recipes?  I don’t see why people in the Middle Ages wouldn’t be inspired to try different foods and alter recipes and diets for their own personal taste and well-being.
  •          There is no reason why small substitutions such as switching from wheat flour to rice flour or regular breadcrumbs to gluten-free breadcrumbs should be an authenticity issue or taste issue when preparing feasts.  Cooks already make many substitutions for taste, availability of ingredients, and differences in quality and processing of ingredients today compared to medieval times.  Gluten-free substitutions won’t destroy the integrity of most recipes.
  •          With that said, I personally believe that everyone in the SCA should be allowed to do what they love without limits.  Cooks prepare feasts because they enjoy it.  I actually DON’T believe guests should expect cooks to cater to every diet because it can take the joy out of it.  In my personal experience, as long as the cooks can give a detailed list of the feast and ingredients I can make my own decisions on what I can or can’t eat and will bring my own food to supplement.

Interesting History:

  •          Celiac disease considered a modern disease. 
  •          Actual cause of celiac disease was not discovered until the 1950s:  During the Dutch famine of 1944-45 during World War II, wheat supplies were very low due to the war.    Despite the famine, it was found that children with celiac disease seemed to thrive during this time and once the wheat supplies returned after the war, their illness returned.
  •          Celiac disease has been known for centuries.  It was first described by Greek physician Aretaeus of Cappadocia who wrote a treatise on diseases circa the 1st century AD.  He did not know the correlation between gluten and the disease, which he named the Coeliac Affection, but his description of the symptoms is of the disease we know today.
  •          In 2008, the skeleton of a young woman was discovered at the Cosa archaeological site in Italy, which showed signs of celiac disease.  DNA analysis of the remains tested positive for a gene variant that is found in nearly all celiac patients in modern populations. Carbon and nitrogen isotopes related to food intake analyzed indicated that the woman likely ate more meat and freshwater fish and fewer plants than other people living in the same area which lead scientists to believe she may have been attempting to alter her own diet to relieve symptoms.

 Diet and Health in the Middle Ages:

  •          Diet and health were very closely related in the Middle Ages.
  •         Food was a main consideration for medieval physicians because of its relation to health.  Those who were on staff in noble homes were quite involved in decisions about menus for the cooks.
  •         Medieval cooks were not only knowledgeable about food, but also familiar with the “humours” or well-being of the body.
  •          Many manuscripts from the late Middle Ages were medical treatises and recipe books combined. A well-known manuscript called The Forme of Cury from 1390 actually has a quote about the contribution of physicians:  A translation goes something like:  “…compiled by consent and deliberation of the masters of medicine and of alchemy that dwelt in his (Richard II’s) court…”
  •          Environmental change and low social rank would force the use of ingredients that were naturally gluten-free.  Examples:  1) Ergotism, a disease resulting from rye grain infected with the ergot fungus, killed many people in the early Middle Ages.  2) Wheat prices soared due to famine in 1314.  3)  Crop failure lead to famine and plague in 1364.  4)  Records mention the poor and victims of famine would stretch their grain supply for bread by adding barley, oats, beans, chestnuts, lentils, green beans, peas, sawdust, grass and weeds.

 Gluten-Free Grains and Other Ingredients Existed and Were Used in the Middle Ages:

  •          Wheat may have been the most popular and esteemed flour in the Middle Ages but it certainly wasn’t the only one used.
  •         Other grains and ingredients included barley (not gluten-free), rye (not gluten-free), oats (gluten-free if pure), peas, beans, lentils, green beans, millet, rice, fava beans and chickpeas (garbanzo beans), almonds and other nuts.


Recipes:
  •         Recipes in the Middle Ages were not the exact science we know today.  Most extant medieval cookbooks that have survived include names of ingredients but little information on quantities, measurements, exact seasonings, temperatures, or cooking times.
  •         Many recipes were more than likely passed down among bakers and families by mouth or by hands-on experience.  Especially for bread, it was such a common act that it has been compared to boiling water.


Binding Agents:
  •          Binding agents are the key to the difference between an edible baked good and a rock.·         Found in grains such as wheat, barley, rye and spelt, gluten is a blend of proteins attached to the endosperms of the grain that, when combined with liquid, will bond, giving elasticity, air pockets, shape and chewiness to the baked goods we love the most.
  •          Xanthan gum, giving elasticity and body to gluten-free baking, is the result of a bacterial fermenting process that provides a slimy substance that is dried and ground into a powder.  Unfortunately, if strict authenticity is desired, it is not a medieval ingredient because it was not discovered until the 1950s.
  •          Some gluten-free bakers rarely use xanthan gum at all due to its tendency to be hard to digest, so they use other binding agents that ARE found in the Middle Ages.  Eggs, gelatin, and ground flax mixed with water are all possibilities that are documented to have been used in the Middle Ages.


Incorporating Gluten-Free Selections Into Your Feast:
  •          The easiest and safest way to incorporate gluten free items into a feast is to use prepared gluten-free baking mixes or gravy mixes, etc. that you can find at most stores these days.  And though I’ve managed to come up with an edible medieval gluten-free bread recipe, the easiest way to offer gluten-free bread at feasts is to buy a package for just those people who need to eat gluten-free and make sure to keep it completely separate from regular bread.  This goes for pastry shells as well.
  •          Slight tweaking to other recipes with gluten-free ingredients can be easy and make hardly a difference to taste or texture.
  •          Flouring Meats: Rice and millet flours are both medieval ingredients.
  •          Breadcrumbs:  Gluten-free bread crumbs work well…there are some pre-packaged ones available at stores, but many of them contain a lot of cornmeal which will change texture and taste of a recipe.  I prefer to allow gluten-free bread to sit on the counter for a day or two to dry out and then either break it into crumbs with my hands or use a blender to produce a very fine mixture.  No one will likely notice the difference.  I’ve used gluten-free breadcrumbs to make gingerbread candy.
  •          Gravies and Sauces: Rice flour is a medieval ingredient and works well to thicken hot liquids. If you’re not worried about authenticity, corn starch alone or combined with rice flour works very well.  There are also prepackaged gluten-free gravy mixes available.  Unless you’re using homemade broth, make sure to check ingredients on packages of bouillon cubes and other broth products…many are not gluten-free.  Barley malt or wheat are the ingredients that you will see on non-gluten-free packages.
  •          Puddings and Pie Fillings:  Cornstarch, potato starch, tapioca or arrowroot will substitute well.
  •          Gluten-free is a Sticky Business!:  Gluten-free cake batter, bread dough and pastry dough tend to be “wetter” and much stickier than regular batter and dough.  Don’t be tempted to reduce the liquid needed in a recipe.
  •          Parchment Paper and Foil Are Your Friends:  Because of the sticky batter and dough, lining dishes and pans with parchment paper will make it a lot easier to remove the final product and will save you from a lot of scrubbing!  Cross contamination is a huge issue when baking gluten-free.  Parchment paper will allow you to use your own pans and baking dishes without worry of cross-contamination.  Foil can be used to line cutting boards or plastic serving trays that might hold gluten in them.  Foil roaster pans, pie pans, and cake pans will eliminate cross contamination and are disposable too!